14 California Red Values
Lake County Cabernet and Napa Pinot lead this list of widely available California reds priced at $20 or less
by James Laube
This week’s Tasting Highlights features very good California reds that represent excellent value from the Golden State. The quality of these wines, highlighted by the rather amazing 2006 Cameron Hughes Lake County Red Hills Cabernet Lot 168, reflects both some producers’ sustained emphasis on value and others downshifting a bit to sync with the market.
The Cameron Hughes Cabernet is also a reminder of how the quality of Lake County reds are on the rise. You see the Lake County appellation on more wines these days (it’s due north of Napa Valley, with lots of affordable land and increasingly good vineyards), but also disguised within the broader North Coast appellation (which takes in Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino Counties).
Hughes’ 2007 Pinot Noir is also an excellent value, ditto for B.R. Cohn’s North Coast Cabernet. Also here is a rare California Dolcetto, this one a 2007 from Enotria in Mendocino, and an $8 Petite Sirah from Oak Grove, perfect for everyday drinking.
CAMERON HUGHES Cabernet Sauvignon Red Hills Lake County Lot 168 2006 Score: 89 | $12
Combines ripe, rich flavors with finesse and grace. Full-bodied, with spicy red currant, black licorice, creamy oak and spice, ending with a long, full, persistent finish. Drink now through 2015. 1,700 cases made. —J.L.
CAMERON HUGHES Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros Lot 125 2007 Score: 89 | $18
Distinctive for its soft, creamy texture, with detailed plum, spice, tobacco and pleasant earth flavors. Firms up on the finish, with more mineral and mushroom notes. Drink now through 2016. 2,100 cases made. —M.W.
