Cameron Hughes, Lot 25, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Brut 1998 ($24): Cameron Hughes Wine is one of the new wave of wine companies -- established in the last decade or so -- that source available grapes and/or wines from growers throughout the wine world. Most of these new companies, such as Cameron Hughes, seem to be based in California. Its 1998 Lot 25, which comes from an unnamed winery in Carneros, has the benefit of built-in aging, an unusual plus for California bruts. Made from 50 percent Chardonnay and 50 percent Pinot Noir, its toastiness, balance, and elegance combine to make it a standout bubbly.

It's attractively bottled, and is a terrific value. Score: 93

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